Ionic Posted September 21, 2003 Posted September 21, 2003 I have carefully preserved a vintage shoe from the late 70s. It is a male oxford in grey with a 3inch dark wood effect stack block heel. No platform at all but a stout real leather sole which makes quite a noise on the footpath. Sadly the adhesives are now rotting and the heel and part of the sole section of the right shoe has parted from the main upper. So I need to reglue the leather closing to the plastic semi-hollow composite heel and sole unit. Which are the most compatible adhesives and which to avoid? /I /I
Dr. Shoe Posted September 21, 2003 Posted September 21, 2003 Without seeing the shoes, I would say that Evo-Stik or or Bostik contact adhesive would be the best. Put a thin coat on bothe the surfaces and leave to dry (4 hours or more). Next put on another thin coat and leave until "tacky", heat it over an electric stove (a gas one will burn the leather) for a couple of seconds, no more than 5 seconds then press together as firmly as possible. Do not try to short-cut the process by putting thicker layers of glue on as this will soon part and you serve no practical purpose by putting more than one "foundation coat" on. Graduate footwear designer able to advise and assist on modification and shoe making projects.
Firefox Posted September 21, 2003 Posted September 21, 2003 Good advice Dr Shoe. I was having this discussion with Ionic on a park bench in Russell Square of all places last Sat. I also mentioned light clamping, in perhaps a vice with cloth padding on the jaws and doing dry runs to intimately know the fit of the pieces you are fixing. Be very careful to allow contact adhesive to dry out. Don't treat it like an epoxy as the solvent will not evapourate properly, and the bond will be weak.
Ionic Posted September 22, 2003 Author Posted September 22, 2003 Thanks Doc., I thought it was worth documenting the conversation I had with Firefox here and you have added considerablely more. There was a thought that professional versions of Evostick might be better but I expect there is little difference. Put a thin coat on both the surfaces and leave to dry (4 hours or more). That is what is so difficult about handling those very sticky contact adhesives.... /I /I
Firefox Posted September 22, 2003 Posted September 22, 2003 You can always use a spreader to get a nice thin even coat. It won't affect the final bond while the solvent is still active.
Dr. Shoe Posted September 22, 2003 Posted September 22, 2003 True Graduate footwear designer able to advise and assist on modification and shoe making projects.
Calv Posted September 22, 2003 Posted September 22, 2003 Make sure you get the solvent based version of Evo-stik not the newer water based version -no goood for sniffing - or sticking!! I only have experience of the latter.. Do your own thing. Don't be a victim of conformity. Calv
Bubba136 Posted September 23, 2003 Posted September 23, 2003 I recently repaired a place on a pair of my most comfortable shoes with a product called "Gorilla Glue." http://www.gorillaglue.com/ Following the directions exactly, I put some on the place where the upper shoe seperated from the sole (the stitching came lose) and clamped it for about 4 hours. So far, it seems to be doing the job. Being mentally comfortable in your own mind is the key to wearing heels in public.
Ionic Posted September 23, 2003 Author Posted September 23, 2003 what a hoot! Well I'll look out for any passing gorillas in our inner city urban ecosystem... sounds a bit like a less foamy version of "Fixafoam". has anyone worked with hot melt glue guns? I've never messed with one myself. /I /I
Dr. Shoe Posted September 25, 2003 Posted September 25, 2003 what a hoot! Well I'll look out for any passing gorillas in our inner city urban ecosystem... sounds a bit like a less foamy version of "Fixafoam". has anyone worked with hot melt glue guns? I've never messed with one myself. /I Fine for sticking thick items together but gan harden in ridges which could be problematicall with thin soles and the like. Graduate footwear designer able to advise and assist on modification and shoe making projects.
Ionic Posted September 26, 2003 Author Posted September 26, 2003 This is a general purpose thanks to Doc and Firefox for their considered answers in various threads but without saying it repetitively in each of them. _ I assume the last point by Dr Shoe was refering to hot melt glue causing hard ridges and not gorilla glue.... /I /I
Dr. Shoe Posted September 27, 2003 Posted September 27, 2003 This is a general purpose thanks to Doc and Firefox for their considered answers in various threads but without saying it repetitively in each of them. _ I assume the last point by Dr Shoe was refering to hot melt glue causing hard ridges and not gorilla glue.... /I Yes. I've never heard of or tried Gorilla Glue. Graduate footwear designer able to advise and assist on modification and shoe making projects.
Bubba136 Posted September 28, 2003 Posted September 28, 2003 Dr Shoe wrote: Yes. I've never heard of or tried Gorilla Glue. Perhaps it isn't sold in the UK. Now, glue guns. I've never found the formula used in these hot glue gun sticks to be very powerful in terms of holding power. It's good for cardboard and faberic but I've never had success using it on wood or leather. Being mentally comfortable in your own mind is the key to wearing heels in public.
Ionic Posted September 29, 2003 Author Posted September 29, 2003 Yes. I've never heard of or tried Gorilla Glue. It appears to be a one part polyurethane resin see: http://www.gorillaglue.com/ It contains at least one propietary ingredient but there should be an equivalent product over here with similar performance. /I /I
Dr. Shoe Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 Funnily enough, polyurethane is a widely used adhesive in shoe making (and I think a constituent of evo-stik). Graduate footwear designer able to advise and assist on modification and shoe making projects.
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