manoleat

I was at the EMO this year but sadly didn't see such a beautiful piece of art...

On 7/18/2019 at 1:12 PM, Pierre1961 said:

Hello @manoleat!

if you are the hobbyist behind them,can you tell me if I could order some pairs ,and where ( or how)? 

Thanks 

Pierre 

Hello Pierre,

as a hobbyist I sadly don't have the time to make shoes or boots on order. Anyhow, these are mostly my first steps and there are still some issues I will have to sort out.

Tank you for your interest though!

manoleat

I am the hobbyist behind them, yes.

Thank you!

18 hours ago, Pierre1961 said:

I love that vintage look with that round toe cap! 

That’s what I love on vintage boots like these. In a shorter version they were called babydoll toes.

9 hours ago, p1ng74 said:

I admit I didn’t know what button up boots even were until today.  They look amazing!  

Thank you very much! Sadly the Lady I made them for couldn’t wear them. At least that’s what she said.

Something for the lovers of about 1930‘s style button up boots here. These are not originally vintage but finished last year.

Even shanks could be replaced by a good shoemaker. But that might exceed the worth of the boots possibly?

There is not a machine that makes shoes. Actually shoemaking doesn’t need any machines at all even though at least a sewing machine comes in quite handy.

Beyond that it’s all about a handful of tools and not forget: The skills of the shoemaker!

Nice spring-o-lators you have!

On 7/28/2017 at 7:49 AM, Pierre1961 said:

Caroline Groves deserve a visit. Doesn't she? Has someone here bought something from her ? 

Caroline Groves makes only bespoke shoes and boots. She has no showroom but sometimes does trunk shows - in New York for example.

Last year in October I was given the unique opportunity to meet her. She is a very nice Lady and at least had one of her boots with her so I could "inspect" this gem. On the picture you can see me "comparing" my boot with hers. A total different league of course... ;-)

I also visited Natacha Marro in her workshop that day. What a nice crazy Lady and also awesome shoe and boot designs. All this happened during the London Fetish Weekend and I surely won't forget that!

Since the old 1930's thread is closed I would like to open a new one with one of my latest purchases.

These shoes have been recently sold at Kerry Taylor Auctions and I was the lucky bidder. They were made for Regent Shoe Stores in Wardour Street, London. Another specialized shop in high heels back then was National Shoes, also in Wardour Street. Both got their high heel shoes and boots made in Belgium. Sadly I don't know which manufacturer back then worked for them. Not so long ago I learned that Belgium was big in the shoe industry back then. 

Interesting with these shoes is that they are quite a big size. Imprinted on the sole is a 44 but they are to todays standards a narrow 43, still big though. They sport a 6.25" heel. So high heel fetish was nothing new for men back then. I also have other shoes and boots in that size from the era 1930's to 1950's.

Silvia Fado includes some small springs in her designs. Surely not like shown above but they still take a bit of the shock.

I am sorry but as far as  know you can't do nothing about that. 

Real patent leather is often much more durable but can get tricky in time also. For example some easily take color from other next to them stored boots or shoes. Also some patent leathers get sticky in time. I have a vintage pair that has this problem and also black patent leather application get grey...too bad. I asked a leather specialist about that. They told me I can't do anything to preserve the leather as it is.

A bit late here but here are my 5 Cents:

Storing them with hangers you want to keep apart different colors with some paper. Darker boots can stain brighter and patent leather takes anything!

I store most of mine in their boxes or the vintage ones in cotton bags, toe stuffed with tissue and rolled then (lace up boots). Well, my longest are 120cm...wouldn't work any way. With not very soft leather they should not be stored folded longer. For them you should get a box big enough and store them rolled into thin paper/tissue.

Well, I guess the link above was not very helpful if you don't have much money and time to spend. But there are other possibilities you maybe can take on a few days of vacation. I have to say that I have no experience with these courses so recommendation is impossible for me. But since you are located in London some should be reachable for you. http://shoes.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ&zTi=1&sdn=shoes&cdn=style&tm=101&f=00&su=p284.13.342.ip_p504.6.342.ip_&tt=2&bt=5&bts=5&zu=http%3A//www.prescottandmackay.co.uk/ http://icanmakeshoes.com/ http://www.paulthomasshoes.com/content/handmade01.htm and also sometimes in Budapest: http://www.shoemakingcourse.com/ videos here:

Looks nicely made!

The term "handsewn" for shoes means something totally different. It is not "exactly" how hand sewn shoes are made. Many of them are nailed to the wooden last. Indeed on handsewn shoes you can sometimes see this temporary fixing of the shaft to the inner sole with thread. But then the shaft is glued or really sewn to the inner sole afterwards. Sewing it to the inner sole and sewing on the outer sole through leather frames makes a real handsewn shoe. Personally I would remove the fixing thread that is shown in these pictures after the glue dried. The space between the shaft leather has to be filled with cork to make it even to attach the outer sole. You can not afford to have caves between the inner and the outer soles. Handmade shoes with a leather insole have also attached there the steel shank. In modern shoes it is already part of the insole. These selfmade lasts have no metal sole plate. So nailing would be possible if the used material for the last allows it. If one is really interested in classic shoe making techniques - even without wanting to practise - I can highly recommend the book "Handmade shoes for men" from Laslo Vass and Magda Molnar.

It is very interesting to see how you get along with your project!

Nice to see that you are still active on your project. By all the work you did so far a wooden last maybe could have already been carved by you. I am sure that you will be able to do that. It only will take a bit longer than carving the hard foam.

Just a short info on Marziali: I ordered a pair of boots on October 2nd and heard nothing from them een though I tried to get in contact several times. I am still hoping to receive them as Richy did. But one can not be sure. Because of that experience I can not recommend Marziali Shoes in any way.

Hi Richy,

thank you for the quick response.

I did read all the postings about them being a bit unreliable. But I also read this http://www.hhplace.org/topic/18479-leatherworks-gone-bust-what-to-buy-instaed/#entry289124

Since you seem to have or had a pair of Mrziali shoes you maybe have an answer to my question about the size? Would be nice to know if they run true to size or runn small.

Thank you,

mnoleat

Hi everyone, I am thinking of buying a pair of boots from Marziali for my girl. As always when buying online or from mailorder the question is left if the shoes from the seller will run true to size or smaller/bigger. My girlfriend has a bit wide feet so usually uses one size bigger. Has anyone experience with the sizes of Marziali? Are tehy more reliable now than it was a few years ago? Thank you! manoleat

Maybe one of the most interesting pictures of the Getty collection:

http://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/pair-of-black-patent-high-heeled-shoes-with-white-straps-news-photo/3249978

Take your time, Rome was not built in on day too. Anyway we will follow your thread with interest (at least I do).

Good luck!

Btw: These vintage boots of my collection have a slightly pointed toe box either http://www.hhplace.org/vintage_fashions/18403-boots_30s.html#post262322

Great model you made! But it seems you don't stick to the baby doll toe anymore as your model shows a bit pointier toe box.

The boots you showed are said to be made in the 1930s by a guy named Sal Gervasio but there is no proof for that. You can read a bit more here:

http://thebootfetishist.blogspot.com/2010/03/betty-page-boots.html

and much more in issue #13 of Bootlovers.com. There you can also find the whole gallery of these boots (pictures made 2002).

Making platform and heel as one part by milling a solid piece would let them look like the similar platform boots from Pleaser etc.

Your sketches are nice (I think) but in this small size here difficult to watch.