Going to create high heels by myself...

[hh&c fan]

Info: I don't intend to build high heels made for wearing them 16h/day. It's just the fun of creation and wearing them indoor from time to time. Especially in large sizes it's hard to find very high heels with a sexy shape. So I'm now thinking of creating them by myself. Of course this will be a challenge but I feel I can master it. I'm very creative and dextrous. Always building stuff from scratch. For example, just a year ago I made a patent leather corset from scratch, without any pattern. And thanks to some logic and dexterity it's working fine... However currently I don't have the time to begin, so at the moment this is just theory. I'm thinking of showing my experiences here if some of you are interested to follow me and want to try it by themselves. First difficult thing is to get or create the lasts. Buying ultra heel lasts with short point in size 46/US14 is impossible, so this is where my work will begin. I would be glad if Dr. Shoe gave some feedback on this... I'm currently seeing 4 different ways of creating the lasts. 1. Just use a foot casting - it is possible but the results won't be satisfying. 2. Use an existing high heel that fits you nicely to cast new lasts 3. Use a combination of 1+2 and some modelling clay 4. (my favourite as I'm having experience with that) Create a digital 3D model of the lasts and use a CNC fraise to create some good lasts. To create the 3D models you'll of course need a CAD software or at least a 3D modelling application. Soles and Uppers will be made from leather (arch reinforced with some flat stainless steel spring). Regarding the heels, I'm going to cast the heels of one of my high heels. I'll go with resin reinforced with aluminum/carbon rods. Attached to this post you'll find an image of the high heels I'm going to make. One of the few platform boots I like. Finally: I know this will be difficult. You may tell me about all the problems I might come accross. But please pass on just posting "dumb idea" or "you'll never gonna do this" ok? Looking forward for some feedback and your thoughts!

[Shafted]

Here is a website of a woman who makes her own shoes.

http://www.marywalesloomis.com/

A very good read for how one can make a pair of low to mid heels shoes with an ordinary sewing machine, contact cement and salvaged heel blocks. She even covers how to make custum lasts from your feet.

Just remember the shank of the shoe usually is not just a flat piece of metal curved to the arch. Its usually a stamped piece of metal that is bowed across the short dimension to make it really stiff and made out of really thick steel. The heel/shank assembly has to be really stiff and solid if you intend to put any weight on it.

Good Luck.

[hh&c fan]

thanks, I already know her stuff. When you search around the web you can find shoemaker blogs, tutorial videos and various resources (currently I'm studying an older shoemaker book, very detailed - 500 pages...). I think it won't be a problem to curve a 2-3mm shank with my available tools. I'm not sure if I understood one thing right though - with "bowed accross the short dimension" do you want to say the shank is not only curved along the arch curve but also in the other direction? That won't be easy to do without machinery...

[Shafted]

I'm not sure if I understood one thing right though - with "bowed accross the short dimension" do you want to say the shank is not only curved along the arch curve but also in the other direction?

[Glosha]

Great idea to create something special and what you'll like to wear. Wish I could be in any help, but I'm here just to support you. So'good luck and keep us up to date with a progress.

[hh&c fan]

Thanks for the kind words. Before I'm beginning with anything, I'll just find all needed materials and tools so that I can calculate how expensive it will be. Addition to 1st post: The right english term for "CNC fraise" seems to be "CNC mill" / "CNC milling machine"

[Dr. Shoe]

What you are proposing is fraught with problems and dangers. Molding lasts from a live foot is virtually impossible. If you submerge your feet in plaster and then pull them out, all you'll be left with is a useless hole. The forepart of the foot is wide and flat and the instep is deep and narrow so as you pull your foot out, you will end up with a hole that is both wide and deep tapering down to one which is wide and flat. In addition, you will find that it is impossible to get the same heel height on both lasts. They will feel the same but when you cast the lasts they will be very different. On an ultra high heel the variance could be as much as an inch. Even if you put a block in the bowl, one foot will be further back than the other giving you a totally different arch. Using CAD might not be the way forward either unless you have an intimate knowledge of foot anatomy. Altering another shoe design won't work, the dynamics of feet are quite complicated, as the heel gets higher, some parts of the foot shrink and others stretch- and this isn't so well understood unless you have a good knowledge of the joints and bones of the foot. Ok, suppose you manage to produce a set of lasts, next you need heels. As the heel gets higher, the pressures and the forces change. The force is no longer through the long axis of the heel but instead the sheer forces acting on the heel seat will force the heel outwards so that it tends to kick back when you lift the weight off and will kick forward as you apply weight to it. Even the best factories often get this wrong. So you have good, well balanced lasts and some nice strong and properly engineered heels, what about the shanks? For flats and low heels, this isn't a problem, you can get away with a sliver of wood. As the heels get higher though, the forces acting through the arch of the foot make it necessary to increase the shank's rigidity. The proprietary ones are bent and then fluted. Making your own from sheet steel would mean bending it into shape and then somehow putting a flute in it without altering the shape. The proprietary ones are pressed with dies under huge pressure or forged. Now you have the lasts, heels and shanks you are ready to go. But what about your patterns? You cannot just guess what shape the individual pieces are going to look like, they have to be made according to certain "rules". You are trying to convert a 3 dimensional object into a 2 dimensional shape, this is not easy for the untutored. OK, suppose you manage to fluke the last, heels and shanks and make some patterns, what about the making? A piece of leather is expected to bend in two dimensions. It has to follow the profile of the instep but also bend around the foot in the other plane. it is a rule that you cannot bend a sheet material in two directions. In fact, many materials such as steel are strengthened by corrugating them! You have to stretch the leather the one way before you can bend it the other so that the shape is built into the shoe. Actually bending the leather around the toe so that it is smooth and neat requires a special tool called a lasting pincer. This will pull, stretch and hold the material while it is tacked and glued. Try buying one. If you don't know where to look this will be impossible. I have yet to come across any tool for any other profession that is remotely similar or could be used for this job. OK, you have your last and the shoe is now fully made. It has the heel and sole on, how are you going to get your last out? It will need to be shortened or you will need a way to dismantle it to get it out of the shoe because it will not come out in one piece. A foot is jointed and bends, a solid last doesn't so that facility has to be built into it. The biggest problem is that unlike a corset (for example), you have to build the shoe or boot from beginning to end and then see if it fits. Any other garment you can fit it as you're going along. If you can get a boot on before it's lasted does not necessarily mean it'll fit when it's finished. you can't even use that to assess where you went wrong because for all you know your misfit could stem from a very early stage in the design.

[Shafted]

A question Dr. Shoe: Are the shanks annealed after pressing to relieve pressing stresses? I would seem to make sense from an engineering standpoint.

[barney15c]

i found that lasting pincer tool, not cheap though.....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CS-Osborne-Lasting-Pincers-Pliers-Osborne-Ref-233-Leatherwork-Tool-/260879346536?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3cbd9eeb68

[hh&c fan]

First, thanks for your detailed answer!

What you are proposing is fraught with problems and dangers.

Molding lasts from a live foot is virtually impossible. If you submerge your feet in plaster and then pull them out, all you'll be left with is a useless hole. The forepart of the foot is wide and flat and the instep is deep and narrow so as you pull your foot out, you will end up with a hole that is both wide and deep tapering down to one which is wide and flat.

In addition, you will find that it is impossible to get the same heel height on both lasts. They will feel the same but when you cast the lasts they will be very different. On an ultra high heel the variance could be as much as an inch. Even if you put a block in the bowl, one foot will be further back than the other giving you a totally different arch. Using CAD might not be the way forward either unless you have an intimate knowledge of foot anatomy. Altering another shoe design won't work, the dynamics of feet are quite complicated, as the heel gets higher, some parts of the foot shrink and others stretch- and this isn't so well understood unless you have a good knowledge of the joints and bones of the foot.

That's just right. Of course heel height will affect the last shape in a complex way. I've got a pair of heels with the right height. I'll use these (and maybe some image references) with my 3D modeling abilities to create a good pair of lasts -- in the same size.

Ok, suppose you manage to produce a set of lasts, next you need heels. As the heel gets higher, the pressures and the forces change. The force is no longer through the long axis of the heel but instead the sheer forces acting on the heel seat will force the heel outwards so that it tends to kick back when you lift the weight off and will kick forward as you apply weight to it. Even the best factories often get this wrong.

Currently I'm planning to mold the heels using a solid resin reinforced with aluminum rods.

So you have good, well balanced lasts and some nice strong and properly engineered heels, what about the shanks? For flats and low heels, this isn't a problem, you can get away with a sliver of wood. As the heels get higher though, the forces acting through the arch of the foot make it necessary to increase the shank's rigidity. The proprietary ones are bent and then fluted. Making your own from sheet steel would mean bending it into shape and then somehow putting a flute in it without altering the shape. The proprietary ones are pressed with dies under huge pressure or forged.

This one might get difficult. I can bend them into shape but currently don't know how to put a flut structure in them. I'll look around, maybe I'll find a metal processing company which can create a bunch of those for me.

Now you have the lasts, heels and shanks you are ready to go. But what about your patterns? You cannot just guess what shape the individual pieces are going to look like, they have to be made according to certain "rules". You are trying to convert a 3 dimensional object into a 2 dimensional shape, this is not easy for the untutored.

This won't be a problem. I'm able to create own patterns from sketch (did this for my own corset without any template).

Now the making begins. There are some detailed vids on youtube and other places. Also you can find some old books about "traditional" manual shoecrafting.

OK, suppose you manage to fluke the last, heels and shanks and make some patterns, what about the making? A piece of leather is expected to bend in two dimensions. It has to follow the profile of the instep but also bend around the foot in the other plane. it is a rule that you cannot bend a sheet material in two directions. In fact, many materials such as steel are strengthened by corrugating them! You have to stretch the leather the one way before you can bend it the other so that the shape is built into the shoe.

Actually bending the leather around the toe so that it is smooth and neat requires a special tool called a lasting pincer. This will pull, stretch and hold the material while it is tacked and glued. Try buying one. If you don't know where to look this will be impossible. I have yet to come across any tool for any other profession that is remotely similar or could be used for this job.

I already searched & found most needed tools. Searching for "lasting pliers" might give you more results on google. If I remember it right, I found one for about 35 pounds. However massive tools are always pricey...

OK, you have your last and the shoe is now fully made. It has the heel and sole on, how are you going to get your last out? It will need to be shortened or you will need a way to dismantle it to get it out of the shoe because it will not come out in one piece. A foot is jointed and bends, a solid last doesn't so that facility has to be built into it.

Well that could be a problem. Do you know how this is done with real lasts? And in case you don't have a closed shoe, just pumps // lace-able boots, isn't it possible to pop the last out of it without adding damage to it?

The biggest problem is that unlike a corset (for example), you have to build the shoe or boot from beginning to end and then see if it fits. Any other garment you can fit it as you're going along. If you can get a boot on before it's lasted does not necessarily mean it'll fit when it's finished. you can't even use that to assess where you went wrong because for all you know your misfit could stem from a very early stage in the design.

Indeed that will be difficult. No risk no fun

Again thanks for your detailed thoughts!

[shedevil]

Well hh&c fan I will wish you good luck because if you ever those platform boots that you showed in the picture, I will be your first customer....I love those boots

[Dr. Shoe]

A question Dr. Shoe: Are the shanks annealed after pressing to relieve pressing stresses? I would seem to make sense from an engineering standpoint.

I don't know. I think they might be. They seem to come coated in some kind of laquer.

i found that lasting pincer tool, not cheap though.....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CS-Osborne-Lasting-Pincers-Pliers-Osborne-Ref-233-Leatherwork-Tool-/260879346536?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3cbd9eeb68

That is one of the cheaper ones, a decent pair will set you back around £80-100. They'll be OK for the occasional shoe maker though.

[Dr. Shoe]

First, thanks for your detailed answer!

Again thanks for your detailed thoughts!

You're welcome.

No, the last will not come out of a court shoe or a lace-up shoe unless the shoe is designed in such a way the last will come out. What I would do is to make your model last then send it to a last maker. The good thing about doing that is they can then supply you with different sizes as and when required.

If I was going to make my own lasts I'd try and develop some method that will allow me to dismantle them in the shoe. However, you don't want the last to fall apart while working on the shoe.

[hh&c fan]

You're welcome.

No, the last will not come out of a court shoe or a lace-up shoe unless the shoe is designed in such a way the last will come out. What I would do is to make your model last then send it to a last maker. The good thing about doing that is they can then supply you with different sizes as and when required.

If I was going to make my own lasts I'd try and develop some method that will allow me to dismantle them in the shoe. However, you don't want the last to fall apart while working on the shoe.

I'm currently looking for possible last makers. But I think the "mechanics" of a normal last won't work for a very high heel last. The easiest method (which seems to be used for most lasts) is the last consists of two screwed parts which can be disassembled after construction.

So either I have a lastmaker creating the lasts for me, or I'll use the CNC'ed one-piece-lasts, cut them and make it possible to connect the parts using some screws... I'll show a sketch on how I'd make this soon.

This http://www.reinheimer-werkzeuge.com/links/hilfsmittel.htm is a link to a german tool manufacturer who offers some tools for shoemaking - at a very nice price.

Regarding the shanks, would you use really stiff metal or *slightly* flexible strong spring steel?

[hh&c fan]

P.S.: One thing I sshould say: it isn't my intention to create shoes which feel like they were made by a master shoemaker. My most loved pair of high heels (the silver sandals in my avatar) were 40€/$55 and a cheap china product. I want to create a shoe which is shaped and designed in the way I like it...

[Shafted]

Regarding the shanks, would you use really stiff metal or *slightly* flexible strong spring steel?

The shank has to be rigid as the insole and outsole will be bonded to it. If it flexes the sole could start coming apart in the arch. Don't skimp here if you intend to wear the finished product. If finding proper shanks is proving fruitless consider having a machine shop mill them out of solid stock. I'm pretty sure that a blacksmith could help you out in the shank department as well by forging them out of cold rolled steel strip stock.

I hate to destroy a high heel on purpose, but taking one apart will give you a real education on how they are made. After successfully extracting a shank from a high heeled shoe (no easy task) you'll soon see how beefy and rigid they really are. Warning don't do this with a wedge or one that has a rounded outsole through the arch. The wedge will be shankless and the other could be.

I really hope you can do this. I really want you to be successful doing it. I don't however want to see you hurt yourself with a weak design with an extreme heel.

[Shafted]

Just found out from a little googling that the shanks are tempered after forming.

[hh&c fan]

The shank has to be rigid as the insole and outsole will be bonded to it. If it flexes the sole could start coming apart in the arch. Don't skimp here if you intend to wear the finished product. If finding proper shanks is proving fruitless consider having a machine shop mill them out of solid stock. I'm pretty sure that a blacksmith could help you out in the shank department as well by forging them out of cold rolled steel strip stock.

I hate to destroy a high heel on purpose, but taking one apart will give you a real education on how they are made. After successfully extracting a shank from a high heeled shoe (no easy task) you'll soon see how beefy and rigid they really are. Warning don't do this with a wedge or one that has a rounded outsole through the arch. The wedge will be shankless and the other could be.

I really hope you can do this. I really want you to be successful doing it. I don't however want to see you hurt yourself with a weak design with an extreme heel.

ok this is what I thought. one option will be to have someone create them using a cnc mill. I'll see about that later. First thing is to create the digital last and find someone who can mill them.

[Shafted]

Another thought I had is to have the heel and shank constructed as a single unit. Many modern stilletto platforms are constructed this way. Take a look at a clear lucite pair to see that there is no heel spike or shank. They are molded as a single rigid piece where the heel, shank and platform are all one piece.

[Dr. Shoe]

That would be an option.

[hh&c fan]

I thought about that in some way, too. I was thinkin about having the shank and the heel reinforcement rod in one piece... well there are some possibilities. I'll make some sketches and find out if there's someone who can create these.

[Crystalized]

Working on this project myself. I'm such a small size and no one caters to small feet or legs (that's affordable anyway...) so I'm ALWAYS having to take knee high boots in so they fit around the calf nicely, or adjusting other heels for a snug fit.

[hh&c fan]

Working on this project myself. I'm such a small size and no one caters to small feet or legs (that's affordable anyway...) so I'm ALWAYS having to take knee high boots in so they fit around the calf nicely, or adjusting other heels for a snug fit.

That's great maybe we can help each other here and there!

[manoleat]

I would like to encourage you on this project. I know that it is possible and I am working on such a project too, if only I would have the time...

I wrote you a pm and get in contact with me if you like.

Beside that I love the boots you would like to make. I know where the pictures came from. The boots were part of the Gemini Klein collection if I rememer correct.I am also not into platforms but into vintage high heel boots with baby doll toes.

This lady has managed to make her own shoes and boots too, some altered and some made from scratch. And beyond that she is also self taught. She shows us that it is possible - not easy but possible. Thank you Suzanne!

http://suzanziballetheels.com/category/home-crafts-with-suzanzi/

[hh&c fan]

I would like to encourage you on this project. I know that it is possible and I am working on such a project too, if only I would have the time...

I wrote you a pm and get in contact with me if you like.

Beside that I love the boots you would like to make. I know where the pictures came from. The boots were part of the Gemini Klein collection if I rememer correct.I am also not into platforms but into vintage high heel boots with baby doll toes.

This lady has managed to make her own shoes and boots too, some altered and some made from scratch. And beyond that she is also self taught. She shows us that it is possible - not easy but possible. Thank you Suzanne!

http://suzanziballetheels.com/category/home-crafts-with-suzanzi/

yep that's right. I think they were made around 1920 and some years ago they were bought by some collector.

Yeah Suzanne's great but she's got really weird bowed heels

I'm going to let plateau and heels be made with a CNC mill. That's easier and more solid.

Today I made some rough orthografic sketches. A thrill of anticipation...

attached to this post.

[manoleat]

The boots you showed are said to be made in the 1930s by a guy named Sal Gervasio but there is no proof for that. You can read a bit more here:

http://thebootfetishist.blogspot.com/2010/03/betty-page-boots.html

and much more in issue #13 of Bootlovers.com. There you can also find the whole gallery of these boots (pictures made 2002).

Making platform and heel as one part by milling a solid piece would let them look like the similar platform boots from Pleaser etc.

Your sketches are nice (I think) but in this small size here difficult to watch.

[hh&c fan]

The boots you showed are said to be made in the 1930s by a guy named Sal Gervasio but there is no proof for that. You can read a bit more here:

http://thebootfetishist.blogspot.com/2010/03/betty-page-boots.html

and much more in issue #13 of Bootlovers.com. There you can also find the whole gallery of these boots (pictures made 2002).

Making platform and heel as one part by milling a solid piece would let them look like the similar platform boots from Pleaser etc.

Your sketches are nice (I think) but in this small size here difficult to watch.

Well they are just meant to be small sketches. just to find the targeted shape, height and style.

bwwwwaaaaaaaa never said I wanna make platform and heel from one part! What I told was just that instead of beginning to shape & mold plateau and heels manually I'm going to find someone who can cnc them so that I can work with exact and high quality parts!

[Dr. Shoe]

Good Luck.

[hh&c fan]

It took me some time to decide which modeling/Cad application to use, but now it's decided and I created a basic model. This was just done by using blueprints. Next, I'll add anatomically correct shape to the last (currently just very basic) and then apply the measurements of my feet (well the blueprints were already done by using their measurements anyway).

For those who are interested, check the attached demo images

and these links (check attached password.txt):

https://rapidshare.com/files/2798248223/hhdemo1_img.zip - a dozen images (0.5MB)

https://rapidshare.com/files/2948263790/hhdemo1_vid.zip - video (~10MB)

Hope u have fun watching them!

P.S.: In case you're wondering why the toe box is so high: to make it possible to create such a short box, the last will not only include the foot but also a hidden angled 2cm plateau!

password.txt

[shedevil]

very nice HH&C Fan, I will be one of your devoted customer for sure

\

It took me some time to decide which modeling/Cad application to use, but now it's decided and I created a basic model. This was just done by using blueprints. Next, I'll add anatomically correct shape to the last (currently just very basic) and then apply the measurements of my feet (well the blueprints were already done by using their measurements anyway).

For those who are interested, check the attached demo images

and these links (check attached password.txt):

https://rapidshare.com/files/2798248223/hhdemo1_img.zip - a dozen images (0.5MB)

https://rapidshare.com/files/2948263790/hhdemo1_vid.zip - video (~10MB)

Hope u have fun watching them!

P.S.: In case you're wondering why the toe box is so high: to make it possible to create such a short box, the last will not only include the foot but also a hidden angled 2cm plateau!