EdwardianEra

Happy New Year!

Yes, he's going to have to get used to it--I'm not planning on stopping anytime soon.

Sigh....I'm really pissed off at my older sister right now. My room is a terrible mess (however bad you are imagining it, multiply it by three). Yesterday she decided she wanted to borrow my radio with mp3 input, and pretty much destroyed any semblance of order I had in the already messy room. She picked up piles of stuff and threw them in the other half of the room. I now can't find anything. Including the pattern pieces I had cut out of the bodice and cape, which were supposed to be at least partially assembled this weekend. The convention is in 30 days, and I needed time to get the bodice finished and work on drafting the apron....

UGH....and this weekend, my schedule is completely full--no time to spend in my room looking for everything. Of course. So she couldn't have picked a worse time to screw with my sewing stuff.

And I go back to school on Monday. Then I have end-of-term exams the next week.

Fun.

I need to go to bed and feel really bad for awhile.

I want to become a designer, or more specifically a historic costume designer for films and theatre. It's not that my dad is upset that I sew, it's that I'm wearing the ladies clothing that I'm making. He wouldn't be uncomfortable if I was only sewing dresses for friends and other women.

To be truthful, my parents aren't thrilled about it. My mom isn't so much against the actual wearing of the clothes--she's annoyed that I've spent so much cash on outfits I only get to wear a few times a year. My dad, on the other hand, is uncomfortable with the whole idea. When the topic of the next dress came up, he said why don't I make a Victorian suit to go along with it and show that I can tailor men and women's clothes. Not really subtle. He's not comfortable talking about it so it rarely comes up in conversation. In short, they aren't encouraging my individuality this way. Regardless, I'm sure they would prefer me spending money on sewing and crossdressing rather than using drugs or other idiotic stuff. Besides, it's a really conservative fashion--high collars and skirts to the floor. I'm not parading around in really skimpy clothing, so there's no risk of accidental exposure, etc., so I'm not self conscious. I just feel so...right...in a Victorian dress. Like I've always belonged in it. Quick update on the maid costume: I made the mockup bodice to check the fit, and it seems very good. I'm waiting for the main fabric to finish preshrinking in the dryer, then I can get the pattern pieces cut out tonight.

Yes, CDing is common and openly embraced at anime conventions, one of my main reasons for wanting to go.

I do love the outfit though.

Thanks.

As ShockQueen said, Cosplay literally means "costume role-play"; assuming the character's persona complete with the type of dress that character would wear. It is an all-encompassing term. Crossplay, however, is a inner division of cosplay--the only difference being that the character portrayed is of the opposite gender, thereby "crossing" gender roles.

So if I understand right, Alsheels, then your stepdaughter is dressing up as a female character who is pretending to be the male wizard? Then that is not crossplay, just cosplay, since her character is physically a woman (who just happens to be impersonating a guy for part of that story).

Confused yet?

BTW, there is a locally famous guy who goes to Youmacon as Sailor Moon each year. His costume and his accessories, complete with killer stiletto boots and an outrageously long and accurate wig, make him look completely fabulous. Plus he's a bit tall and slim, so he has similar proportions to the original character (think realllly long legs...). XD

I'm currently working on the petticoat ruffles and impatiently waiting for my bodice pattern to arrive. More to come later!

Thank you all!

Actually, that was my first complete outfit I've sewn. I had never sewn a fitted bodice before, or sleeves. The corset was probably one of the easier things, actually.

Oh--and it was my first convention, as well as the first time I'd been able to CD for more than a few hours (Friday 7 AM to 12 AM, and Saturday 12:00 PM to 11:00 PM). It was so much fun; I can't wait to do it again in January!

Here are pics, as promised!

Corset

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff175/VictorianBoots/Corsetfront.jpg

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff175/VictorianBoots/Corset-side.jpg

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff175/VictorianBoots/skirt-back.jpg

Petticoat #1

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff175/VictorianBoots/1petti1.jpg

Petticoat #2

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff175/VictorianBoots/2ndPetti1.jpg

Petticoat #3 (which was actually made entirely from a thrift store bedskirt!)

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff175/VictorianBoots/3-Petti-1.jpg

And the quick-and-dirty bloomers I threw together using a free online pattern (again using a bedsheet):

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff175/VictorianBoots/bloomers.jpg

I'm working on a fourth petticoat right now, and it's going to be covered with ruffles. Lots of work but I think it'll look great and hold the skirt out very well, especially when it's starched.

And this is Emma's maid outfit, which I am making for Ohayocon in January (the skirt is essentially done and I just ordered the bodice pattern):

http://accel21.mettre-put-idata.over-blog.com/1/10/24/47/manga/emma.jpg

Thanks again, and I'll update my progress on the outfit over Christmas break!

Wow, both of those pairs of boots are drop-dead gorgeous! They were definitely specialized purpose, though, because boots were not in fashion in the 20s (T-straps, court shoes, and oxfords were most commonly seen). And heels for everyday use typically topped out at about 3 inches. Of course, these boots are not by any means everyday boots...

I notice the comments on the pages complain about the legs being too long and out of porportion. If you actually look at the boots, they're probably a size 4-6, and with normal length legs and such high heels they would look oddly proportioned.

Coincidentally, I happened upon a pair of 1890s Swedish knee boots that were likely a performer's footwear (be it fetish, circus, or otherwise). RED AND GOLD....BUTTON BOOTS!.....wow. Sucks that the pic is small and grayscale, though.

http://www.metroland.net/back_issues/vol_26_no37/art.html

Thank you, Elegant! Yes, I had meant to get my eyebrows plucked and better makeup, but I ran out of time...and money. I was finishing sewing the twenty (!) buttons onto the bodice at 3:30 Halloween morning, and my, was my dad angry at me for staying up so late--I had to get up for school two hours later.

I wore the complete outfit to school....XD my, that was interesting. I got praise from just about every one of my teachers, especially when they found out I had sewn the outfit myself. It's a rather conservative Catholic school, by the way, which explains the irony.

A friend gave me some basic foundation to use, but of course it wore off pretty quickly (I was rather warm in my outfit). Which is why my face is shiny in all the photos, by that time the makeup had worn off.

I also bought a wig, and the seller posts on the costuming forums I do (she's really friendly). I had to restyle it (with some difficulty; it's synthetic) to better match the look I needed, but it is pretty good quality and was only $70 including shipping costs from California. The wig matches my own hair colour so well that several of my friends thought it was my real hair from a distance. And even though it is acrylic, I didn't have the "steambath" feeling normally associated with synthetic wigs--I barely noticed it at all once I glued the front edge down, even with the heavy braided bun at the base of my neck.

ShockQueen, the series is Victorian Romance Emma, set in 1895 involving a gentryman and a maid who fall in love. Cliched, I know, but the plot is very well thought out and the artwork is absolutely beautiful. While this isn't as well known a series, I was surprised at the convention--a lot of people came up to me and said, "Emma, right?"

Edit: The dress is based on one Emma wears near the very end of the manga. Most of the time before that she is either wearing a black and white maid's uniform or a plain red travelling dress. I'm actually working on her maid outfit for Ohayocon, this coming January.

Here's a

for the anime on Youtube. The anime deviates from the story's plot, so it isn't as good as the manga but is still enjoyable. The music is fantastic, however.

I've given up on figuring out how to embed the photos, so I'm just going to link to the photos I have.

Okay, here's the heels I'm wearing, 2 3/4 inches, manmade but extremely comfortable, for several hours at a time, anyway (and I got them for free!):

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff175/VictorianBoots/boots-1-1.jpg

And the dress, which hides the boots anyway (I need to resew the hook and eye closing the skirt in back; at the moment it's too far over and the skirt slips down about 2 inches). It's based off 1895 fashion:

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff175/VictorianBoots/dress-2.jpg

A (I think) slightly more flattering photo someone else took:

http://www.freewebs.com/scottyspot/01Youmacon2008/yooomahhh/91.JPG

I made just about everything I'm wearing--the hat, a corset, three petticoats, bloomers, and the skirt and bodice. The gloves were bought at a leather goods outlet store on sale and on clearance, for just $9.

I wore this to Youmacon, an anime convention near my house, and wow I had a good time. On average, I would say I was approached for a photo every 10 minutes or so, not kidding! And quite a few people didn't realize I was a guy, which was quite amusing. I'll post the funniest situations later (it's almost 1 AM here, and I need some sleep before school ).

I can also post photos of the corset and other pieces later, if anyone is interested.

Thank you!

Hello all! I've been pretty much absent for a long time, but am happy to be back. Remember how I said I wanted to make a Victorian dress? I did! And I just realized I cannot figure out how to post photos with the different system. XD I'd like to insert the photos in the text, and not have to link to them or have them all at the end of the post. Thank you!

Hi Mitchell, (Just as a side note - I haven't posted in about six months. Hi again everyone!). As has been said, everyone is different in how long it takes them to finish growing. I'm 17, and wear a size 10-10.5 men's shoe. Of course I'm one size too large to fit comfortably into all the ladie's boots and shoes I like (which go up to an 11, not a 12), but I digress. If you have been the same size for several years, that could indicate that you are close to, if not finished, growing. How tall are you? I have had the same shoe size for about 5 years, and I reached 5 foot 6 between fifth and sixth grade (I was rather small before then...needless to say I felt rather awkward for a few years). I haven't grown anymore since then, but I don't mind - with heels I'm about average height. I just wish my feet were smaller, even by just one size. I sprained my left big toe a few weeks ago and got an x-ray, just to make sure I hadn't fractured anything. The doctor could see from the x-ray that my growth plates had closed up, so this is my basically permanent shoe size. I suppose you could make an appointment and have an x-ray done, if you really want to know, but I'm fairly sure insurance won't cover it unless the doctor orders one for medical reasons. -EdwardianEra

Hello HighHeelDude, I'm a fellow 16 year old who is teetering on the verge of telling my mother, if not her and my father. Currently, I have a small, old chest in my room that is full of shoeboxes (only 4, but a couple skirts and a purse fill it up). I guess I could be called a partial crossdresser, as I like wearing skirts and heels, but not ladies' underwear or bras. Currently, my family (except my older sister) assumes that the chest is full of sewing supplies, as we got the chest when we cleaned out my great-aunt's apartment. My room is very, very messy right now, though, so my parents don't go in and poke around (I don't think they would anyway). So stuff I want hidden generally stays hidden in my room. The fact that I am gay doesn't help my cause. By engaging in my crossdressing, I feel rotten sometimes, as though I am perpetuating the stereotype that all gay men crossdress. I know I shouldn't feel that way, but I can't help it. My school counsellor moved to Colorado in June, and she was my main supporter and motivator. HighHeelDude, what kind of school do you go to? I go to a private Catholic high school. It is not the best environment for a gay guy in heels. I suppose the only reasons I choose to keep going are: (A) I have made a few very good friends who are understanding and supportive, and ( I have a much better chance of not being beat up in the corridors or lavatories. Unfortunately, any rumours, true or false, spread through the school like wildfire, and can hurt worse than physical wounds. I have not been brave enough to wear heels in school. While I do my best to not care what other people think, often I feel too self-conscious about my image. I better go to bed. It's 3 AM here in Michigan. Good luck with your heel wearing! -EdwardianEra

HeelD,

I am pretty confident that those kinds of shoes can be "de-tapped". The taps are held on by screws so that broken or worn ones can be discarded and replacements fitted.

Additionally, the shoes can be bought without taps. Try Zappos, for Capezio dance shoes. Here is a similar pair to the ones in the video (probably with a lower heel, though).

Here's the link to the above shoes: http://www.zappos.com/n/p/dp/1852898/c/3.html

Hope this is helpful,

-EdwardianEra

Hi Skirted-UK

I agree that the jacket will prove extremely difficult to do. I think I'll save that for once I am much more advanced in sewing, or even have a seamstress make it. Considering my lack of female anatomy the chest area would be difficult to alter from a pattern, at least for a beginner like me.

As for the skirt, from what I can see in the movie I'm guessing it is at least a 7-9 gore design; you are probably closer with your estimate of 10. I'll try a few straight skirts and see how much difficulty I have with them before attempting a simple Victorian design.

I took your advice and got about ten books out of the library today on basic sewing and historical costuming. They are proving very interesting and will help immensely when I begin hands-on learning.

Today was my last day of school; I can hopefully pull down my mother's sewing machine out of the hall closet this weekend or next week and start practicing.

I really appreciate your input and advice, and I'll definitely PM you when the need arises (and I'm sure it will more than once).

Oh, I emailed Ann from Romantasy corsetry. She has no corsets in stock that will fit but I can have a standard one made (not a custom) for roughly $250. That is actually a good price, considering how well Romantasy makes their corsets. Now it's time to find that summer job to pay for it....

And I can't forget the footwear! What outfit would be complete without heels?

If I can gather enough money I might order these 1901 five-strap shoes from a friend I have in the reproduction shoe business, in black leather (sorry for the small picture):

If I can't, the Oak Tree Farms boots below can be found for $100 or less on eBay (I missed an auction that went for only $45; I'm still kicking myself for that).

The boots would be more period-correct for wear with a 1899 walking suit, but our Halloweens in Michigan are typically warm, humid nights, and I'd rather have a pair of low shoes that would let my feet breathe more. However, the shoes cost about $200, as they are custom made with choice of materials (leather, suede, satin, etc.), colours, and heel types and heights. So, unfortunately, the boots would be more economical.

Well, it's about time I retire for the night.

Thanks for your advice, Skirted-UK.

-EdwardianEra

Hello again everyone,

I've been busy with school for the past month and am in my final week, so I will be able to post more after this week (exams) is over.

I watched the movie Moulin Rouge again today and realized what I want to do for Halloween this year! I am going to spend the summer learning how use a sewing machine and then I want to make this (or at least something that resembles it, if I have to really simplify it to make it easier to do):

This is the walking suit that Nicole Kidman's character (Satine) wears nearer the end of the movie. As the movie is set in 1899, the corset is imperative and the skirt has a very wide hemline. The main part of the outfit (sleeves, skirt, and upper bodice) is grey wool, and the accents (hat, collar, lower bodice, gloves, and edging) are black velvet. A veil of netting that drapes down from the hat covers the face.

Here is Satine in Moulin Rouge in the walking suit:

This is mostly wishful thinking, because there is only a small chance I will have become skilled enough to attempt that suit after the summer is over. I have looked, though, and have found numerous patterns for 1890s skirts that would be fairly easy for a beginner, but the jacket will be more difficult. However, I could find a pre-existing pattern for a period jacket and modify it to fit me and to look more like the film costume.

I also want to get a corset, because the suit won't look very authentic without one (the shape will be wrong). I'm keeping my eye open for an affordable corset; the off-the-peg ones from Romantasy.com are looking like good choices.

Edit: I'll post more later, including what boots I'm hoping to get.

If you have any suggestions, I'd be more than happy to hear them.

Thanks,

EdwardianEra

I think kitten heels can look good. I agree with HeelD - if the entire design is attractive, kitten heels can look good. Some look bad.

These are the RSVP Jenny, from Zappos.com. 2 inch kitten heels.

Overall, I think they look nice. But in a larger size (larger than 10), the heel and pointed toe might make the shoe look too large on a person's foot and appear odd.

But kittens are nice for when you want or need (medical reasons, maybe) to wear low heels that are still pumps. And under trousers or jeans, few people would notice them. I would buy these (below) if I had the cash.

These are the RSVP Allisyn. They go up to size 13 wide, while the Jenny above is currently is only available up to a 10 medium.

-EdwardianEra

Welcome, hckyplyr123!

As a fellow forum member who is fairly new to heels, I would suggest starting with no more than 2-3 inches, so you can adjust to the feeling and way of walking in heels.

If you need a good source for shoes, look no further than http://www.zappos.com.

They are considered to be the best shoe website in business, with the best customer service. All shoes ship overnight, for free. You can order several pairs of shoes in various sizes, see which fits the best and ship the others back, and they pay for return shipping, no questions asked.

This way, you can shop from home and get the fit you want, without the risk of buying from other sites and losing money on shipping and reshipping fees.

I wear heels publicly when my sister and I get out of the house to spend weekend afternoons together. I usually change in the car, and wear them for a few hours straight after that. No one has said anything bad to my face; I know I have attracted some attention walking down the street in a mid-calf skirt and silver strap wedge sandals (mostly when I walk past sidewalk cafes). But when I wear jeans with heels, no one really notices. And if they do, they don't dwell on it and just go their merry way.

Best of luck,

EdwardianEra

Typically, I fit a US women's 11 to 12, depending on the shoe brand. But my feet are not uniformly one size (they are not a "typical" size 11). When I try on pumps, if I can get a toebox that is comfortably wide enough, the heel is too wide at the back and doesn't grip properly, causing my foot to slide down in the shoe and cancel out the toebox width, cramping my toes. I prefer strapped shoes, sandals, and lace-up boots right now so I can adjust the fit to keep my foot in place. Custom boots and shoes are something I'm eyeing to invest in in the future. I would like to be a size smaller. The largest sizes sold at Sears and Target (size 11s) run 1-1.5 sizes too small. Because of that, I'm largely limited to shopping at Payless. One thing I like about having a larger size is that I am already able to walk in four inch heels well, and with time will be able to do five inch heels. I have a friend who is a size 6, and her highest heels are four to four-and-a-half inches, I believe. It'll be fun at Halloween to go to school wearing something like five-inch or more stilletos (as friendly competition). -EdwardianEra

That's great, seth! It's so cool to hear about positive experiences and responses from others.

Personally, I would not want to polish my toenails, but if it's what you want to do, go for it without hesitation. I think most guys could pull off strappy heels or sandals pretty well, with or without polished nails.

Very recently I discovered I also like sandals and and strapped shoes. However, I don't like to fully expose my toes, and I hate going sans socks, so I got a couple pairs of flesh-tone knee-highs to wear with my new Payless sandals, when the time is right. I love knee-highs; they look and feel classy and actually stay up, unlike every men's sock on the face of the earth. They would also be good to wear with sandals if the weather becomes a little cool for bare feet.

-EdwardianEra

Wow, kneehighs, those are great photographs of some gorgeous shoes! I can't find any information on the musical "High Button Shoes", but I'll keep looking. That second picture is interesting; I didn't know boots had yet entered the fashion world in the 1930s. I have an appointment with my school counsellor tomorrow morning. She is the best and most understanding of all the counsellors, and therefore I can talk openly about my heels and skirts with her. It's a bit risky, but I'm going to bring in my new pumps and sandals and show them to her (when I bring in shoes to show her, I take them in large paper grocery bags, and always put a change of clothes on top of them as a front). There is little to no chance that my bag will attract attention on the way into the building, and I can leave them in her office in morning until my appointment during third period. It's so nice having someone to talk about this kind of stuff to, like my counsellor, my sister, and all of you here at HHPlace. -EdwardianEra

JNR, The two friends I took were a guy and a girl. The girl, Anna, already knew about my love for heels, so she was fine with it. Ryan, the guy, didn't know until Anna and I had dragged him into the Payless, and then he didn't seemed fazed by me trying on women's shoes. I am blessed to have friends who are much more open-minded and nonjudgemental than some of the people I know. -EdwardianEra

I have been waiting to post in here until I've gone out in public wearing heels. This morning, two friends and I went to the mall, and made a stop at Payless. I bought a pair of three inch pumps and a pair of four-inch sandals; the saleslady didn't bat an eyelid, surprisingly. I walked out of the store and put the pumps on in the corridor, and spent the greater part of our mall visit in heels (and in pain; the shoes need pads or something). I don't think anyone noticed; if they did, they certainly didn't seem to care. I was wearing boot-cut jeans, though, so they probably helped to hide them. Considering this was my first time out in public in actual heels, I had almost no nervousness! When we were sitting in a vestibule waiting to be picked up (I can't drive alone yet, nor can my friends), an older Middle-Eastern woman glared at me. She preceeded to speak loudly in Arabic to her 30-something daughter, and gesture at my shoes. Her daughter then glanced quickly at me and they walked out the door. I wasn't even wearing my pumps! I had changed back into my laceup Victorian boots, and they only have a two inch western heel. Whatever...that older woman seemed to be in a bad mood already before she saw me. By the way, I turned sixteen on 23 March. -EdwardianEra

Hello again everyone,

I went to the mall this morning with a few friends and picked up some shoes at Payless!

Flat black pumps with small bows on the toe, three inch heel, size 11 wide:

I don't love these shoes, but they fit better than most of the others I tried. I wore them out of the store and around the mall for a few hours. They began to really hurt in the toe and heel, so I'll need to get some kind of pad that will help those areas without affecting the grip fit around the back of my heel. They were also only $15, so if I end up donating them or something it won't be too much of a loss.

Now, these are great:

Red patent sandals, size eleven wide. I had previously ruled out buying any sandals because I don't like to wear shoes that expose my toes, but I tried these on and I fell in love with the faux t-strap design. I then went to Sears and bought six pairs of knee-high stockings: four black, one brown, and one flesh-coloured, the last to use with the sandals when I find an occasion to wear them.

I tried on the flesh stockings with the sandals and they look great, but with a skirt, my blantantly unshaved legs show through them. I can't shave my legs because my parents (a) don't know about my heels yet, and ( would become suspicious if they happened to see my hairless leg if a pant leg gets pulled up when I'm lying on the sofa or something.

Anyway, I measured the heel at the back, and it is exactly four and one-quarter inches. I was amazed; I didn't know I could walk well in three-and-a-half to four inch heels yet. They seem shorter because of the thickness of the sole in the heel area. They fit well, and they do not have a severe case of "flip-flop" syndrome like some backless sandals do. They were on sale: only $17.

If I find them fairly comfortable for extended wearing, I may splurge and buy another pair in black patent.

I'll post photos when I can; my parents are out right now for their 24th anniversary but my little sister is home with me.

-EdwardianEra

God, those comments remind me of a number of the students that I go to school with....

8. Wat the crap i thought it couldnt get worse this just takes it to the next level!!! BOYZ DONT WEAR THAT CRAP its just not right. Like wat if girls wore baggy shorts a white beter and sagged? NOT RIGHT PPL!!!! Get your heads straight before u try to make a fashion statement! katie

Girl, learn to spell. You might sound the slightest bit more mature if you knew how to string a sentence together. And I suppose any of your fashion statements, however stereotypical they may be, are more valid than ours? So your fashion view is that boys are only allowed to wear baggy pimp jeans with the crotch around their knees, and those way-too-wide skate shoes?

9. Those are the most stupidest things i have ever saw....they make the guy look realllllyyyyy really gay...no offene to the dude in the picture...he probably got alot of money to do that... swurlzz

If you mean no offense, why do you aim to offend? Again, the errors in common English in your post lead me to seriously doubt you possess any intelligence or maturity.

However, the whole image portrayed by the model, sadly, is stereotypical. The way-skinny, feminine-looking man, and the androgynousness of the clothes (except the "over-the-top" heels), unfortunately are all so-called "typical gay man" views that have been ingrained into the minds of today's society, even if they are not true most of the time.

If designers would start a little more realistically, maybe public acceptance would come faster. Then again, who knows? Public acceptance could take just as long either way; no one can predict the future.

Waiting on the world to change,

-EdwardianEra

Hello again everyone, That's a great suggestion, Stomcat. I'll have to start scoping out such events in areas close by me. At Greenfield Village in Dearborn, Michigan, there are vintage car shows throughout the year, and one car show focuses specifically on late 1800s to 1930 automobiles. They are very fun, because all the drivers (and their children and spouses) and mostly required to dress up in period correct clothing. Although, sometimes I see historical mistakes in the outfits that bother me, such as the shoes being incorrect (heels too thin, too wide) or patent leather (overly shiny and sometimes scuffed). Most good-quality leather back then was treated to be so shiny that it would be close to, but not quite, as shiny as patent shoes today. But the leather was also 'glove soft'; some modern patent can be a bit stiff. If you have never had the pleasure to handle an original pair of Victorian boots, you do not know how incredibly soft the leather is. The ivory boots I ordered came about a week-and-a-half ago (the Friday before last). They are absolutely wonderful! The fit was better once I put my gel arch support insoles in, though. The toes are pointy, and the toebox could use a slight stretching, but they fit fine otherwise. The heel is about two inches, and very comfortable to walk in. I'll post more about them shortly (have to go help with dinner). -EdwardianEra

Wow, those are high! Personally, they are not something I would buy, but they are interesting. I agree with balletbooter, Paypal can be risky as well - your account can be locked for no reason, their databases can be hacked, and trying to get refunds can be a very trying experience. I have only had positive experiences with eBay sellers - I always investigate feedback and information before I bid or buy an item from anyone. There are some very kind people on eBay, and there are some very nasty ones. -EdwardianEra