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What Adhesive To Use To Fix My Wedge Heels


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My recently aquired Jessica Simpson Wedge slingbacks are coming apart. Specifically, the sole is coming off the bottom.

 

I have Shoe Goop, but I'm wondering what is the best options for glueing the sole back on.

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A contact cement like Barge. It's what shoemakers and shoe repairers use.

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My local cobbler uses it in quantity, but also sells it by the tube.

Shafted, the boots that is! View my gallery here http://www.hhplace.o...afteds-gallery/ or view my heeling thread here http://www.hhplace.org/topic/3850-new-pair-of-boots-starts-me-serious-street-heeling/ - Pm me if you want fashion advice or just need someone to talk to.

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We use either Bostik or Evostik. Both are contact adhesives.

 

First smear a thin layer on both surfaces and leave to dry, preferably overnight. Next apply another thin layer and leave it to go tacky. Shove the sole under the grill (on full heat) for a few seconds (ten or so) to reactivate the glue and stick firmly together.

 

For the very best results the soles should be removed completely and both surfaces thoroughly cleaned before you start.

Graduate footwear designer able to advise and assist on modification and shoe making projects.

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Contact adhesive (also called contact cement in the U.S.) works great, but be advised that it is imperative to get the two pieces perfectly aligned the first time. Once you stick the pieces together, virtually no adjustment is possible.

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I've used ShooGoo. Contact adhesives work better for this application. ShooGoo is great however for repairing damaged leather.

Shafted, the boots that is! View my gallery here http://www.hhplace.o...afteds-gallery/ or view my heeling thread here http://www.hhplace.org/topic/3850-new-pair-of-boots-starts-me-serious-street-heeling/ - Pm me if you want fashion advice or just need someone to talk to.

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Screw your wigs on folks and have a good chair to sit on as this one will come from ' way out there '.

 

http://www.larsenproducts.com/plaster-weld-2

 

Ive used ' Plaster weld ' for decades doing plaster repair. Its almost like a liquid laytex/rubber compound. It gets into small holes and allows basecoat or even finishcoat of plaster to hold together. Ive actually used this stuff on ' dirty ' surfaces that have grease and oil on them and it worked flawless.

 

It dries as a very flexible entity. It doesnt get hard like a ' contact cement ' will.

 

Ive used it on 2 older pairs of shoes where the leather parted from the soles. and they are not together and NOT coming apart. I GUARANTEE its a stronger bond then all that has been mentioned. I will go as far to say its stronger then what shoemakers presently use.

 

The only 2 BAD things about using it is the stuff dries a darker pink color so being careful in applying it is a must. It also doesnt smell too good when the can is first opened.

 

REPEATEDLY ARGUMENTATIVE, INSULTING AND RUDE. BANNED FOR LIFE.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I recently had a problem with a pair of lightweight work boots - essentially trainers with a steel toecap and oil-resisting sole - where the rubber sole started to come away from the leather upper at the front and was 'flapping'.   Attempts to repair using a contact adhesive (similar to Evo-Stik) were only partially successful as the repair did not hold for long and needed to be repeated.   I then tried a simple glue gun with standard hot melt sticks; a little more difficult to use (as the glue started to set before I could apply it to the whole area) but I persevered and got a result that has lasted now for a dozen wearings.   On an industrial scale, hot glue guns are used for some shoe assembly tasks and similar applications so it is well worth trying the DIY equivalent for any suitable repair where extra strength is needed.

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Screw your wigs on folks and have a good chair to sit on as this one will come from ' way out there '.

 

http://www.larsenproducts.com/plaster-weld-2

 

Ive used ' Plaster weld ' for decades doing plaster repair. Its almost like a liquid laytex/rubber compound. It gets into small holes and allows basecoat or even finishcoat of plaster to hold together. Ive actually used this stuff on ' dirty ' surfaces that have grease and oil on them and it worked flawless.

 

It dries as a very flexible entity. It doesnt get hard like a ' contact cement ' will.

 

Ive used it on 2 older pairs of shoes where the leather parted from the soles. and they are not together and NOT coming apart. I GUARANTEE its a stronger bond then all that has been mentioned. I will go as far to say its stronger then what shoemakers presently use.

 

The only 2 BAD things about using it is the stuff dries a darker pink color so being careful in applying it is a must. It also doesnt smell too good when the can is first opened.

Your suggestion is interesting, ILK, but I am surprised that you have had a good result using Plaster-Weld as a leather adhesive.   This product is not available in the UK and I've never used it - but there are many comparable PVA adhesives/bonding agents that will do what Plaster-Weld is intended to do, i.e. facilitate plaster bonding to 'difficult' walls - something I have done on a number of occasions.   However, although a good PVA adhesive (typically one used for woodworking) will certainly bond leather or almost any absorbent material to itself or another substance, bond strength is likely to be limited when the cured bond becomes subject to flexing or tension, as a shoe repair will.   If it has worked for you, fine - but shoe repair is clearly not an intended use of Plaster-Weld and I know of no other PVA adhesive which will do the job reliably - but maybe there is one.   (Do bear in mind that many US products are simply not available in the UK or other countries, and vice versa, and that UK regulations on the supply of allegedly hazardous products preclude easy availability of many adhesives, solvents and the like (although PVA is readily available.) 

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